Saved by the Snail Kite

Collier-Seminole State Park, Naples, FL - Site #52

This could have been a totally horrible day—except there was a Snail Kite.

The Snail Kite is an endangered species in the US. It is more common in parts of central and South America. Here, it is only found in Southern Florida in the Everglades and there are only about 400 breeding pairs here. It feeds almost exclusively on Apple Snails, which live in freshwater marshes.  It is most commonly seen along the Tamiami Trail, a road which crosses the state, running through Big Cypress National Preserve (it actually runs from Tampa to Miami). There are several spots with wide open views of the wetlands.

Every time we've made this crossing we have looked for them and, until now, we've not been successful. Today was different. The most frequented hot spot along the trail is the Miccosukee Restaurant, but we couldn't find a place to park, so we continued on to the parking lot a closed indian shop. We stopped here last time through and it was also recommended by our friend, Alan.

As we pulled in, another Roadtrek, almost identical to Speedy, was pulling out. The two women inside asked if we were birders and said they'd seen several kites. This was a good sign. We scanned the marsh and immediately found one quite far out. It was perched, but then started hunting. It was flying toward us as it weaved back and forth over the marsh. Its flight is similar to a Northern Harrier, but it flies even slower, almost hovering with little wing movement.

It just kept on coming in our direction, finally perching just across the canal from where we were standing. It stayed in the area for the entire time we were there, at least a half-hour. It would perch on a high branch, then fly off to hunt in the marsh immediately opposite us. If it it snared a snail, it would perch on a low shrub to eat it, then return to a higher bush.

We have rarely had such a clear and lengthly view of a raptor in the field. This was, by far, the highlight of our day. A life bird for both of us. We saw a total of four kites hunting in the marsh. Oh yeah—we got photos.



Full-size Slide Show Here

It wouldn't have taken much for it to be a highlight, given our day. You don't have to read any further, if you just want the good news.

We started out fine. The dawn was sunny and the weather was cool and clear. We had mostly packed up Speedy last night, with only a few things to put away. Ellen found out that the solar hot water doesn't really last overnight with a morning shower that was at best, tepid. We said our good-byes to Alan & Ruth and were on our way.

Our first stop was for fuel for Steve and our second was for fuel for Speedy. We stopped at Robert Is Here for a last Key Lime Shake (yes, it was 9:30am). As we pulled onto the shoulder across from the store, this man pulled up next to us gesturing. I rolled down the window and he started yelling at us for pulling over without signaling. I told hime he was wrong, that we'd had our signal on. He yelled some more that it wasn't on long enough and he had to stop (He would have had to stop anyway, because there is a stop sign only ten feet further. He then proceeded to get out of his car and came over to my window and started threatening us. With great restraint, I kept quiet and Ellen told him to calm down. He eventually went away, bit it was a rather unnerving experience.

As he left one of Robert's employees came over to ask if we were all right. I went over to get my shake anyway. When I ordered it, I was told it was on the house. I went to thank Robert (who really is there) and he apologized for the behavior of his fellow residents. I thanked him and mused that the guy probably had a bad Saturday night. I don't think I've ever seen road rage like that before.

We probably got five miles up the road, driving the speed limit and not more than a mile past the local speed trap, when we were passed by another yahoo who honked and gestured at us then deliberately cut right in front of our bumper before speeding off. We really wanted to get out of the Homestead area.

Several hours, several big traffic jams, a Snail kite and an unplanned extra 16 mile detour for groceries later, we pulled into Collier-Seminole State Park. We have to admit that this in one of our least favorite state parks, but it is the only campground within reasonable driving distance of Naples that isn't an "RV Resort" (the kind that don't take riff-raff Class Bs like us). We had repeatedly heard that the park was closed for renovations and were surprised when we were able to make a reservation just last week.

The reason we were able to make a reservation is because is hasn't been renovated and is the same old crowded old campground it always has been. (The campground host said there was something about contractor fraud—this is Florida—and they had the contract out for rebid and now the renovations would be starting in April). When we made the reservation there wasn't much available and we took a corner site, site 52. As we pulled into 52, we couldn't find a table anywhere. It turned out that the folks in the next site had appropriated the picnic table, the electricity and water for the site and had spread out right into it. They had a couple of tents and a lot of stuff. They looked like they were living in the site, not camping. Did I mention they were using the car a a boom box?

After retrieving access to our water and electricity and moving Speedy around several times in a futile attempt to find some relatively private orientation, we settled in, did laundry and had dinner.

It has quieted down now. We are off to see Ellen's cousin Kathy and her husband Paul tomorrow. It will be good to see them. Paul rescued Speedy last time through when we arrived with a failing water pump.

More journal tomorrow...with better news, we hope.