On to Big Bend

Yesterday morning started out foggy and drizzly at Sequoia Canyon State Park, so we decided to eschew the canyon tour and push on to Big Bend National Park, about 250 miles away. The weather improved as we went higher into the hills and the desert, but the gas prices did not.

In the populated parts of Texas and along the highways, it was usually $2.999/gal, but by the time we got to Sanderson and refilled, it was up to $3.259/gal. When we stopped in Marathon, it had become $3.469.

Marathon was the last town before entering the park, which was still 40 miles away. We stopped at the French Grocery (no relation to the French Laundry) which was a rather eclectic store, among the usual small selection of groceries were things such as the local goat cheese (we bought a Pepper Chevre--bell peppers and chiles) and selection of organic foods, including Black & Green Chocolates.

After a chocolate milk shake, big enough to share, at the local soda fountain (a real soda fountain), we headed down the park entrance road. 94 miles later we pulled into Rio Grande Village campground, finding a nice site in the "No Generators" area.

The sun is setting fairly late here on the western edge of the Central Time Zone, about 7pm. After a candle-lit dinner and a ranger talk on Javelinas (Don't call Me A Pig), if was off to another quiet evening's sleep--no generator hell here.

This morning we finally got out the mountain bikes and rode to the local store and visitor center to see what was on offer. Not only are there showers and laundry facilities and a gas station to fill the motorcycles, but they have WiFi! There may not be cell phone service, but ther is Internet access.

It was then on to a 10 mile ride out to the Boquillas Canyon overlook for our first glimpse of the Rio Grande and Mexico on the other side. Until 2002, there was an informal border crossing here, where the river is shallow, and one could visit the small, isolated, town of Boquillas, Mexico. There was a steady stream of visitors from the park going over to eat at the cafes and buy souvenirs. In 2002, after the security crackdown caused by 9/11, the border was closed, pretty much killing the economy of Boquillas.

Mexicans still come across the river and set up little displays of souvenirs for sale at the overlook parking lot using an honesty box for payment. There are signs in the visitor centers saying that this is illegal, but I suspect that Park Service turns a blind eye to this as long as the Mexicans are not physically present selling their goods.

A fellow came up on horseback from the river and left some things on the rocks in the parking lot. He said hello and that he hoped the border would reopen in the future, but not actively try to sell us any thing. You could see people on the other side sitting in the shade, probably keeping an eye on their merchandise.

It is about 2pm now and we are taking a bit of a siesta in the hot afternoon, when it cools a bit, we hope to give the motorcycles a bit of a ride, maybe to Terlingua.

Time to go, Ellen calls that a Roadrunner is just outside the van.

Photos